London, Baby!

I forgot to mention it, but Drew and I jetted off to London a week ago for a quick weekend holiday trip!  We really wanted to do some of the German Christmas markets but we needed someplace close and fast so we'll save that for next year - plus, London had lots of Christmasy things so we didn't miss out!

We got in by 8:30pm on Friday night, and took the train across the city to Putney where our friends (that we were staying with) live.  We ate a lovely Italian dinner and were in bed by midnight, hoping to get a good night's sleep for the full day ahead.  The next day, we basically walked the entire city and ate and drank our way through it.  As per usual.

Note: There may be way too many pictures on here for one post but I didn't feel like dividing it up.  Sorry.

First stop: Borough Market!  Our friends told us this place was a food lover's paradise and they were RIGHT.  We spent a few hours there just wandering through the stalls and sampling various things.

Buying a donut/cinnamon twist!  It had been too damn long.

Yummy pastries

Pretty wreaths

Our friends had also told us about these famous grilled cheeses at this awesome German food stall there, where they basically heat up slabs of cheese under a hot bar thing and then they scrape off the cheese onto your sandwich (made with Poilane bread) and they add leeks and garlic!  Heaven.  I was obsessed.

Slabs of cheese heating up!

Sandwiches with an inch of shredded cheese on Poilane bread, waiting to melt all over my face.

HELP!

Nom nom nom.

Delish!  Obsessed!  Too good for words!

(Side story: Drew and I were splitting the sandwich but he didn't love it as much as I did so I asked if he wanted anymore of it before I finished it off and he said no.  I took one more bite, mentally preparing myself for the very last bite of this cheesy goodness, when Drew said "Actually, maybe I'll have one more.." and proceeded to take my last bite of my favorite sandwich out of my hand and put it into his mouth before I could say a word.  I. WAS. LIVID.  DO NOT come between a girl and her grilled cheese.  #fatkidproblems)

Fresh bread

Crafty home goods

Bowls o' avocados for €1!!  BARGAIN ALERT!  The ones in Ireland are like €3 each.  Damn.

Busy bustling bozos

Sausages and salamis and what not

HUGE pan of paella!  Yes please.

Fresh veg.

Roasted duck for sandwiches!

We got one.  Couldn't resist.

He approves!

And we finished off our market adventure with a glass of mulled wine.  Just what the doctor ordered.

So that was fun.  Then we walked out of the market and over to the River Thames and walked alllllll along it, saw several hot spots, and passed through a fun German-like Christmas market thing.  Even though we weren't in Germany.

The Globe Theater!  Where Bill Shakespeare used to hang out.

The Tate.  Ugly building but cool museum.

Book fair!

Some sort of Mexican tree thing that reminded me of my sis-in-law Lauren, cause she has lots of this type of stuff!

Festive German/English market on the South Bank.

Ornaments!

Holiday stall-topper.

The London Eye!  More like the London Eye SORE, am I right?

Big Benny Boy and Parliament.  Beauts shot.

Oh hey!

London Eye from across the river

Wesminster!

The money shot.

After taking several pics and wandering around those big landmarks, we walked over to Trafalgar Square and then to Covent Garden to check out the shops and other festive things.

This whole city was PACKED.  Everywhere.

Reindeer topiary.

And then we went to Harrod's!

Pretty interiors.

Fresh seafood

Oh baby!  Gimme.

Egyptian escalator

Pretty exterior

Drew loves trains and tubes and anything underground!

We mainly came to London for this huge festival/market in Hyde Park, which was party carnival/fair, part Oktoberfest, and part Christmas Market.  We avoided the carnival part and mostly hung out in the beer tents and walked around the stalls with our Bailey's Hot Chocolate.  Very fun, festive, crowded, and freezing.

Beautiful sunset in Hyde Park!

Another cute German food/beer stall.

Hot Choco with Baileys

King's Road for din - all lit up!

Cath Kitson for Moll.

We stopped by our friends' Christmas party and then went home and crashed.  We had no plans on Sunday because we'd mostly walked everywhere on Saturday (and because we're coming back to do more touristy things in May) so we had a Sunday Roast with our pals and stopped by the Natural History Museum on the way to the airport.

Ohhhh yeah.  Shropshire roast chicken with veg and Yorkshire pudding!

Dinos at the museum.

Triceratops!  This thing was huge.  Yikes.

Speaking of huge, this blue whale was ridiculous.  It took up the whole room!  If I saw a real one I think I'd pee myself.

Medusa!  Lookin' cray.

People skating and enjoying the holidays outside the museum.  Ah.  Lovely.

We really enjoyed our time in London, even though it was super quick and more crowded than we even knew what to do with.  It got us even more in the holiday mood and we had a nice time with our pals!  Can't wait to go back.  And...did I mention I'm home in 5 days??  AHHHHHH.  I need something to distract myself.  Alright, off to...pack.  Too soon?

Spanish Lunches and Other Updates

I haven't written in awhile.  I've been sick and Drew's been sick and we've both been cranky and I haven't felt like writing for some reason.  But there's no better time to jump back into writing than when you're totally tipsy from an all day holiday drinking fest/party with the old people in your Spanish class.  Not only did I realize (yet again) that day drinking is a bad idea, but this outing also emphasized how very little I know about...anything.

We went to a festive restaurant I've been wanting to try, The Green Hen, and had a beautiful Christmas lunch complete with several bottles of wine and lots of chatting.  Highlights of the lunch include....

• Listening in on in depth discussions about Francisco Franco.  Having nothing to contribute because I don't even remember when he was in power or when the Spanish Civil War was.  Discreetly asking when he actually died.  Wondering why no one was talking about him with malice in their voices because...wasn't he horrible?  Didn't everyone hate him?  Why can't I remember anything?  Why don't I know anything?
• Having everyone ask me about America's involvement, or lack thereof, with Cuba.  Fielding questions about how Americans feel about the Cuban embargo now in present day.  Is it even relevant anymore?  How do you get there if you want to travel?  Why don't I know anything?
• Smiling and nodding through a discussion about Che Guevara and his life and accomplishments and politics and odd involvement with Ireland.  Who is Che again?  I know he's a revolutionary guy for some South American country.  Is he still alive?  Should I even know this?
• Looking involved and interested when they all started talking about the Age of Reagan in America and asked what my thoughts were.  Um..what?  I was 2 years old watching Sesame Street in my diaper.  But I couldn't say that because they don't know how young/old I actually am.  And they said that most Americans hate Reagan but...don't some people think America was booming then?  Or is that just because I have conservative parents?  Why don't I know anything?  Shit.
• Getting lectured about American healthcare and how much it sucks AGAIN.  Getting lectured about how I need to speak up in class more.  And when I protested and said that I would never presume to know enough about Ireland to spout off my opinions (a slight dig at their willingness to speak authoritatively about anything and everything American) they said I need to make something up and express myself anyway.  Right.  Because everyone loves that about Americans.

(My brother undoubtedly has his head in his hands right now and is very embarrassed.  And this is why he would love it if I read The Economist or any other worthy news site/book other than People.com and Us Weekly.  Shit.)  But in my defense, they didn't talk about anything I'm passionate about/knew!  They didn't ask me about immigration, or domestic violence, or books or literature of any kind (in English OR Spanish), or the mystery surrounding Heath Ledger's death, or the many loves of Gwyneth Paltrow, or how I believe that Angelina Jolie is the Antichrist!  None of that came up.  Ugh!  Not my fault.

I'm making it sound worse than it was.  I held my own and proved not to be a total dumbass about some things but the aforementioned bullet points were definitely what was happening in my head.  And I've now decided I need to enroll in some course aptly entitled "Everything You Need to Know About the World or History or Politics or Anything Else, Ever."  And that way I can spout off all kinds of knowledge.  Sigh.  But I still maintain that I shouldn't need to know ALL that information.  Whatevs.

Highlights of my day/week also include going back to the doctor for the 3rd time in 4 weeks because I can't get well AND having to drop trow in front of her, completely unprepared, so she could check for the hernias in my abdomen that I know exist but no one else believes do.  I also went to a fun Christmas tea at The Shelbourne with some pals that was definitely a highlight.  And I volunteered at my new volunteer place, but I'll post more about that later.  Here are some pics:

Found this BARGAIN ALERT at my local grocery store for €7!  You better believe I bought it.

I made Smores Bars for a Christmas party and for Drew's coworkers.  SO GOOD.

Went to a Christmas party at my friend's!  Super fun and festive.

Saw a fox going through some trash on the way home from said party.  Cool!  Irish wildlife!

This was a gingerbread Christmas train scene on display at The Shelbourne.

Pretty tree in the hotel lobby!

Bubbly.

Tea sandwiches - yum yum.

Desserts and scones.  Oh baby.

My gal pals: Lauren, Niamh, me, Autumn, and Missy.
(And Missy and Tom got engaged this past weekend!  Woohooo!  So much to celebrate.)

Alright, off go to make dinner or be productive or something.  Or maybe I'll read a book about history.  Later!

A Storybook Ireland: The Misconceptions and Merits of the Irish People of the 21st Century

As promised, I'd like to introduce Meredith Davis, my smart and funny bestie who just came to visit, here to guest blog on Songs of the Solomons!  You can follow her on Twitter at @14below OR on Instagram at @mahotah.  Enjoy!

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Greetings followers, fans and readers of Songs of the O’Solomons!  Meredith Davis here to give you my perception of Ireland through the lens of a first time visitor.  You may be familiar with some of my other travel writing such as NYC Cabs are Yellow : And Other Insights to the Obvious and Are we there yet? : Driving Across the State of Texas.  

I boarded the Aer Lingus plane with pre-conceived visions of both Ireland and Irish people, even though I’d never been, and returned to NYC with actual credit to believing some stereotypes and new ones of my own.

Let’s first start with the misconceptions.

Why do we want the “Luck of the Irish”?  I understand the phrase was coined in irony, but I think Americans forgot that.  The Irish have to be the unluckiest people in history.  England treated them horribly.  (I now know see where the phrase “red headed step child” comes from).  The country’s been divided by civil war.  Finally, they have their own independence but are now crippled by a recession.  Wait a minute, this pattern sounds very familiar.  Where have I heard of a country that broke from England to then have a civil war and now in a recession?....  Whatever, this country’s history is centuries full of invasions, famines, failed protest rallies, and the like - where is the luck?  

Another Irish stereotype that is born and grown in America is everyone is a red head and leprechaun.  The only leprechauns I found were in the shops selling “Kiss Me I’m Irish” t-shirts and Guinness keychains to lines of American college students.  Dublin itself is much more continental and European than I realized.  The majority on sidewalks not only do not look particularly “Irish” but are probably not speaking English.  Many Europeans move to Dublin to learn English because it’s cheaper than the poshier town of London.  Who knew?  Now I do, and you do too.

My final surprise, while not really a misconception, is that tribal language is alive and spoken!  Literally, everywhere signs read both English and Gaelic.  The bus driver announces next stops and routes in English and Gaelic.  Gaelic sounds like German and pooky paka tribal language in a blender.  Don’t even bother trying to sound it out and your Texas accent will only butcher it more.  I still have no idea how to say “Merry Christmas” in Gaelic.

  

Remember those videos you’d watch in 5th grade that started with a textbook, opened to a picture and then zoomed in to play a reenactment of a scene?  Well, several times I looked around to see the cameras shooting our lives for an Ireland film because I felt straight out of a storybook.  Turns out, some moments are just as you dreamed.

Ireland is a nation rich in traditions and history, sung through folk songs.  Lauren mentioned in an earlier post our evening at Ireland’s oldest pub, The Brazen Head.  Textbook opens and you see a photo of an Irish band playing live music.  Zoom in and this was our real life on Sunday night.  The chorus of every song triggers a sing-along.  And everyone sings along.  Everyone from the 82 year old man in the corner tearing up with memories of yesteryear to the group of 20-somethings dancing together in traditional choreography.  The unlucky tragedy of Ireland is the theme; haunting melodies about wakes, lost love, nostalgia.  On a lighter note, the musicians are jolly, talented and can rock a pair of spoons.  The Irish value live music so it was a common treat where I even knew some choruses by the end of the week.  There’s whiskey in the jar!

Speaking of whiskey, the Irish love to drink.  Maybe because they’re so out of luck.  Maybe because they have 2 world famous brands brewed and distilled on their land.  Maybe because they stop working and starting drinking at 4.  Oh wait, that’s why they’re in a recession.  Point being, if you are not at work, you are at a pub.  Every city in the world has an “Irish pub”, but these imitation pubs very much resemble the originals.  Pubs are on every. single. block. with cliche names including an O’ a Mc and/or a Molly.  Every pub claims they have the best pint of Guinness (maybe Drew can actually vouch for certain ones).  The drinking culture here isn’t one of mixology and fine wine, but straight pints and pints of beer and the occasional Jameson.  So find a rugby game or a cozy nook and order 3 pints of Guinness - one for you, one for me and one for our new friend!

How many cities can you list where a top tourist attraction is a bar?

And that’s because friends seem easy to make in Ireland.  So do boyfriends.  ANYWAY, the Irish are eager to know where you are from, do you have Irish roots (Katherine, the lovely woman Lauren pictured at Thomas Dillon shop in Galway excitedly tore the “Davis” page out of the phone book to prove I have Irish relatives) and how you’re enjoying your time in their country.  I think I noticed how friendly they are when I returned to New York to have a bus driver at JFK yell at the entire bus.  I thought “they would never treat us this way in Ireland.”  On top of the Irish living with open hearts, they always seem up for a joke and a giggle.  

Thank you Ireland for not taking yourself too seriously.

Driving from Dublin to Galway proved Ireland countryside truly is as breathtaking as I envisioned.  No doubt why Ireland is called the Emerald Isle.  The green is sometimes too rich to capture on film (or iPhone filter).  You know you’re a city girl when you scream every time you see a sheep.  (My mission for my next visit is to go to a sheep farm and befriend a shepherd.)  The rainy weather did not permit me to sing on the cliffs wearing a floral head wreath, but a girl can dream, and now I know the backdrop is that gorgeous.

When I am asked about my week in Ireland, I smile.  I remember the picturesque strolls through St. Stephens Green and Merrion Square, my first sip of Guinness, the delicious meals at Dillinger's, Bear, Junior's, Queen of Tarts, Monks, discovering a new part of the world for me.  But I really smile because I had a full week with my best friends.  I had a full week to be silly, be me, be loved.  Thanks to Lauren & Drew O'Solomon for giving me such a beautiful picture of their life in Ireland.  Off to find a new excuse and time to come back!  Or move back?...

Last Few Days

The only things I currently have to write about are my friends leaving, my horrible whooping cough that won't go away after a round and a half of antibiotics, my lack of energy last week, and our low key weekend.  So I'll just post some pics cause everyone likes that anyway, right?

Molly left Saturday morning.  I was sad.  I might have cried as her bus pulled away.  Then I slept off my tears and we all got up and went to a delicious lunch at Messer's, a pub right on the water.  And we got a front row seat to the ENORMOUS protest put on by literally everyone in Dublin, marching for (or against, as it were) austerity.  What is austerity, you may ask?  According to Wikipedia, it's the "policy of deficit-cutting by lowering spending via a reduction in the amount of benefits and public services provided."  You learn something new every day.  But most of you probably already knew what that was.

Thousands of peeps.

A scary skull float..?

Then we went Christmas shopping and wandered around the city and went home to watch Christmas movies and drink cocktails.  And then we went to Dillinger's, this balla restaurant in Ranelagh I'd never been to before.  REAL good.

Me and Mere's pumpkin & feta pasta with mint pesto.  SO DELISH.  I still dream of it.

Drew's pulled pork sandwich, complete with corn on the cob and CHILI CHEESE FRIES!!  He had no choice.

Happiness!  But sadness cause she's leaving the next day.

So like I've written...Mere left Sunday and Drew and I were both pretty down in the dumps about our lack of visiting friends in our apartment.  So we shopped and got hot chocolate and watched more Christmas movies.  It helped a little I guess.

Last week, I literally did nothing except grocery shop and laundry.  And I slept a lot and moped a lot and felt sorry for myself because I was really sick and I missed my friends.  So sue me!   Looking at this picture from Dallas Thanksgiving every day kinda helped.

My two favorites in the whole world.

I went to the library and got a new book and treated myself to a hot chocolate and brownie one day.  That helped some too.

Ahhhh.

Drew worked a little late on Friday so we stayed in and watched Christmas Vacation on the blown up air mattress in our living room.  Fun times.

"Can I refill your eggnog for you, Eddie?  Get you something to eat?  Drive you out to the middle of nowhere and leave you for dead?"

On Saturday we went to lunch with some pals and Drew played with their new baby.  So that was cute and fun.  

Saturday night I had a Christmas party book/gift exchange with the fun people from my American Women's Group.  We saw a movie on Sunday (The Silver Linings Playbook, I highly recommend it) and wandered around the city in the rain.  Very low key but a good weekend nonetheless.

 Have I sufficiently bored you yet?  Sorry.  But brace yourselves- because tomorrow I have a GUEST BLOGGER appearing and it's gonna be GREAT!  Stay tuned!